Sea-level fluctuations in a coastal lagoon     

Kuo-Chuin Wong 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》1986,22(6)

Sea-level observations made during December, 1979, at six stations in Great South Bay (which is a coastal lagoon on the south shore of Long Island, New York) reveal that there were significant subtidal fluctuations in addition to the tidal oscillations. Harmonic analysis of the tidal oscillations of sea level indicates that M₂ is the dominant tidal constituent. The M₂ amplitude, however, suffered a more than 50% reduction in the interior of the Bay due largely to the narrow inlet. The subtidal sea level fluctuations within the Bay were forced primarily by the low-frequency fluctuations of the adjacent shelf water. The active subtidal exchange induced by this Bay-shelf coupling appeared to have suffered only minor attenuation within the Bay. As a consequence, the variance associated with subtidal sea level fluctuations was greater than that associated with the tidal oscillations over most of Great South Bay.  相似文献   

Implementation of High Resolution Tidal Current Fields in Electronic Navigational Chart Systems     

B. Gjevik  D. Hareide  B. K. Lynge  A. Ommundsen  J. H. Skailand  H. B. Urheim 《Marine Geodesy》2006,29(1):1-17

A system for displaying tidal currents in an electronic chart display and information system (ECDIS) has been developed and implemented in compliance with the standards of the International Hydrographic Organization (IHO). The tidal current fields can be displayed in real time on the electronic navigational chart and several options and functions for updating and zooming have been designed. The current fields are calculated from a data base with the harmonic constants for the four major tidal constituents. The harmonic constants are obtained from a high resolution numerical model with horizontal grid resolution of 100 m. The model is validated by comparing with sea level and current measurements. The depth matrix for the central part of the model domain was calculated from data from multibeam bathymetric surveys. An application example of the implementation is given for Trondheimsleia, a part of the main sailing route along the western coast of Norway.  相似文献   

Morphodynamics of intertidal bars on a megatidal beach, Merlimont, Northern France     

E.J. Anthony  F. Levoy 《Marine Geology》2004,208(1):73-100

The morphology, bedforms and hydrodynamics of Merlimont beach, in northern France, characterised by intertidal bars and a spring tidal range of 8.3 m, were surveyed over a 10-day experiment with variable wave conditions that included a 2-day storm with significant wave heights of up to 2.8 m. The beach exhibited two pronounced bar-trough systems located between the mean sea level and low neap tide level. Waves showed a cross-shore depth modulation, attaining maximum heights at high tide. The mean current was characterised dominantly by strong tide-induced longshore flows significantly reinforced by wind forcing during the storm, and by weaker, dominantly offshore, wave-induced flows. Vertical tidal water-level variations (tidal excursion rates) showed a bimodal distribution with a peak towards the mid-tide position and low rates near low and high water. The two bar-trough systems in the mid-tide zone remained stable in position during the experiment but showed significant local change. The absence of bar migration in spite of the relatively energetic context of this beach reflects high macro-scale bar morphological lag due to a combination of the large vertical tidal excursion rates in the mid-tide zone, the cross-shore wave structure, and the pronounced dual bar-trough system. The profile exhibited a highly variable pattern of local morphological change that showed poor correlation with wave energy levels and tidal excursion rates. Profile change reflected marked local morphodynamic feedback effects due mainly to breaks in slope associated with the bar-trough topography and with trough activity. Change was as important during low wave-energy conditions as during the storm. Strong flows in the entrenched troughs hindered cross-shore bar mobility while inducing longshore migration of medium-sized bedforms that contributed in generating short-term profile change. The large size and location of the two pronounced bars in the mid-tide zone of the beach are tentatively attributed respectively to the relatively high wave-energy levels affecting Merlimont beach, and to the cross-shore increase in wave height hinged on tidal modulation of water depths. These two large quasi-permanent bars probably originated as essentially breakpoint bars and are different from a small bar formed by swash and surf processes in the course of the experiment at the mean high water neap tide level, which is characterised by a certain degree of tidal stationarity and larger high-tide waves.  相似文献   

Tectonic Significance of the Taitung Canyon, Huatung Basin, East of Taiwan     

Jean-Claude Sibuet  Shu-Kun Hsu  Alain Normand 《Marine Geophysical Researches》2004,25(1-2):95-107

Since the beginning of formation of Proto-Taiwan, the subducting Philippine (PH) Sea plate has moved continuously through time in the N307° direction with respect to Eurasia (EU), tearing the EU plate. The subducting EU plate includes a continental part in the north and an oceanic part in the south. The boundary B between these two domains corresponds to the eastern prolongation of the northeastern South China Sea ocean-continent transition zone. In the Huatung Basin (east of Taiwan), the Taitung Canyon is N065° oriented and is close and parallel to B. Seismic profiles show that the southern flank of the canyon corresponds to a fault with a normal component of a few tens of meters in the sediments and possible dextral shearing. Several crustal earthquakes of magnitude >%6 are located beneath the trend of the Taitung Canyon and focal mechanisms suggest that the motion is right-lateral. Thus, faulting within the sedimentary sequence beneath the Taitung Canyon is a consequence of underlying dextral strike-slip crustal motions. As the continental part of the EU slab located north of B has been recently detached, some subsequent dextral strike-slip motion might be expected within the EU slab, along the ocean-continent transition zone, which is a potential zone of weakness. We suggest that the dextral strike-slip motion along the ocean-continent boundary of the EU slab might trigger the observed dextral strike-slip motion within the overlying PH Sea crust and the associated faulting within the sediments of the Huatung Basin, beneath the Taitung Canyon. An erratum to this article is available at .  相似文献   

海南岛海岸环境特征   总被引：8，自引：0，他引：8  

王颖 《海洋地质前沿》2002,18(3):1-9

海南岛虱热带季风岛屿型气候，为南海大陆架岛屿，中央为山地，临海为多种类型海岸，以处于动态平衡的海蚀-海积型海岸为主。海南岛主要是基岩岬湾海岸，潮汐属日潮型，东部与南部为不规则日潮混合潮。海岸构造运动与气候变化的双重影响，更新世初期，海岸属基岩港湾型，晚更新世构造运动频敏，使不少海湾底部抬升为阶地。构造抬升运动持续到全新世，使一些珊瑚抬升为高出海面数米的阶地。海岸类型按其成因与形态可分为两大类：基岩港湾海岸与砂砾质平原海岸。基岩港湾海岸分布于山地与丘陵临海处，砂砾质平原海岸（或为三解洲平原海岸）其表现形式多为沙坝与泻湖海岸，沙坝上叠置发育着海滩、沙堤或沙丘，随着海岸加积展宽或地壳上升，老的沙坝可抬高成为海积阶地。潮流作用对洪湾众多的海南岛的发育演变以及开发利用亦有重要作用。潮汐汊道港湾规模较大，水域面积达数十平方公理。  相似文献   

淤泥质潮流深槽最大冲刷深度的一个概念模型   总被引：2，自引：1，他引：2  

谢东风  高抒 《海洋学研究》2006,24(3):11-20

以概念模式方法计算了淤泥质潮流深槽的最大深度,探讨了涨落潮流速、涨落潮历时、深槽淤泥质物质粒径、深槽顶底部原始深度、水道长度等因素对潮流深槽最大深度的影响。概念模式的假设条件是:(1)深槽形态为长方体,底部纵向坡度为0;(2)沉积物粒径无垂向变化;(3)只考虑潮流作用的影响,涨、落潮流速在时间序列上呈正弦分布;(4)不考虑细颗粒物质的粘性和絮凝作用。模拟结果显示:(1)涨、落潮历时对深槽最大深度的影响很小。(2)优势潮流流速与最大深槽深度之间存在着幂函数关系。(3)深槽的底质粒径、深槽的长度均与最大冲刷深度呈正相关关系。(4)深槽顶部水深与最大深度呈负相关关系。(5)由于潮汐水道深度与潮流流速和沉积物侵蚀强度之间具有负反馈关系,因此水道冲刷存在着一个极限,即最终可以达到均衡状态。潮流深槽的均衡态特征和达到均衡态所需的时间可运用沉积动力学方法来确定;同时,若应用深槽的真实参数,进一步减少模型的假设条件,可望使该模型具有实际的应用价值。  相似文献   

Tidally incised valleys on tropical carbonate shelves: An example from the northern Great Barrier Reef, Australia     

Peter T. Harris  Andrew Heap  Vicki Passlow  Michael Hughes  James Daniell  Mark Hemer  Ole Anderson 《Marine Geology》2005,220(1-4):181-204

The formation of incised valleys on continental shelves is generally attributed to fluvial erosion under low sea level conditions. However, there are exceptions. A multibeam sonar survey at the northern end of Australia's Great Barrier Reef, adjacent to the southern edge of the Gulf of Papua, mapped a shelf valley system up to 220 m deep that extends for more than 90 km across the continental shelf. This is the deepest shelf valley yet found in the Great Barrier Reef and is well below the maximum depth of fluvial incision that could have occurred under a − 120 m, eustatic sea level low-stand, as what occurred on this margin during the last ice age. These valleys appear to have formed by a combination of reef growth and tidal current scour, probably in relation to a sea level at around 30–50 m below its present position.

Tidally incised depressions in the valley floor exhibit closed bathymetric contours at both ends. Valley floor sediments are mainly calcareous muddy, gravelly sand on the middle shelf, giving way to well-sorted, gravely sand containing a large relict fraction on the outer shelf. The valley extends between broad platform reefs and framework coral growth, which accumulated through the late Quaternary, coincides with tidal current scour to produce steep-sided (locally vertical) valley walls. The deepest segments of the valley were probably the sites of lakes during the last ice age, when Torres Strait formed an emergent land-bridge between Australia and Papua New Guinea. Numerical modeling predicts that the strongest tidal currents occur over the deepest, outer-shelf segment of the valley when sea level is about 40–50 m below its present position. These results are consistent with a Pleistocene age and relict origin of the valley.

Based on these observations, we propose a new conceptual model for the formation of tidally incised shelf valleys. Tidal erosion on meso- to macro-tidal, rimmed carbonate shelves is enhanced during sea level rise and fall when a tidal, hydraulic pressure gradient is established between the shelf-lagoon and the adjacent ocean basin. Tidal flows attain a maximum, and channel incision is greatest, when a large hydraulic pressure gradient coincides with small channel cross sections. Our tidal-incision model may explain the observation of other workers, that sediment is exported from the Great Barrier Reef shelf to the adjacent ocean basins during intermediate (rather than last glacial maximum) low-stand, sea level positions. The model may apply to other rimmed shelves, both modern and ancient.  相似文献   

The dynamic behaviour of a river-dominated tidal inlet, River Murray, Australia     

B. Shuttleworth  A. Woidt  T. Paparella  S. Herbig  D. Walker   《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2005,64(4):131

Australia's largest river, the River Murray, discharges to the southern ocean through a coastal lagoon and river-dominated tidal inlet. Increased water extractions upstream for irrigation have led to significantly reduced flows at the mouth and, as a result, the area is undergoing rapid change, particularly with regard to the rate at which sediment is being transported into the lagoon. Based on detailed and accurate bathymetric surveys it has been possible to estimate that the rate of lagoon in-filling is of the order of 100,000 m³ per year for the period June 2000 to May 2003, although the actual rate shows significant year to year variability. Dredging of the lagoon commenced in 2000 in an attempt to reverse the trend.In an effort to understand the behaviour of the inlet a one-dimensional numerical model of the inlet has been developed. The model extends the original of van de Kreeke by including a dynamic inlet throat area based on predicted river flows and a sediment transport module to predict the resulting net sediment transport. Comparisons with water level data collected on both the ocean and lagoon sides of the mouth have shown that the model is able to predict the attenuation and lag of the tidal signal reasonably well. The sediment transport model was based on predicted sediment concentrations in the surf zone and was found to predict the rate of sediment in-filling to an acceptable level of accuracy. It is envisaged that the model will be a useful management tool, especially since it is possible to manipulate river discharges to the mouth.  相似文献   

土工布充砂袋的应用及其研究进展   总被引：10，自引：1，他引：10  

张文斌  谭家华 《海洋工程》2004,22(2):98-104

对土工布充砂袋技术和国内外的应用进行了介绍。鉴于土工布充砂袋属于一种新兴起的土工新材料和新技术，在设计和工程实际中还存在着许多急待解决的问题，着重对各种典型状态和典型环境下的土工布充砂袋的变形、应力和土工布充砂袋堆的稳定性研究进展进行综述，最后提出进一步研究的思路。  相似文献   

海坛海峡二维潮流场数值模拟   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

汤军健  温生辉  陈楚汉 《台湾海峡》2006,25(4):533-540

海坛海峡为南北狭长型海峡，海峡内潮波属于前进波．本文建立了平面二维浅水波数学方程，利用欧拉-拉格朗日差分方法得到数值解，模型采用随时间变化的动边界技术，成功地模拟了海坛海峡的前进波特征，并根据实测数据进行了验证．同时计算了同潮时线和等振幅线，不同时刻的潮流场和潮流平均流速分布．计算结果表明，北部湾口M2分潮高潮时间比南部湾口早约5～6min，等振幅线范围约为2．12～2．15m．海峡内流速分布呈南北强、中间弱的特点，最大流速1m／s左右．  相似文献